Sou’wester, Winter 1979
In my blog and in my newspaper column, I have often sung the praises of the Sou’wester, the quarterly magazine issued by the Pacific County Historical Society since 1966. I have quoted liberally from its pages and made use of its photo archive. Today, I am excerpting an article in its entirety because… well, just because! It was submitted to the magazine by Sedoris Jordan Daniels and printed in the Winter 1979 issue. I love it!
STORIES OF OLD OYSTERVILLE
Told by my Mother, Laura Belle Stevens Jordan (Mrs. Peter Jordan)
My parents, Gilbert and Elvira Stevens, operated the Stevens Hotel, boarding oystermen, many of whom worked for the Crellins. There were also summer boarders, among these the Pittock family of Oregonian fame, with their Negro maid. Father cut and chopped the wood for the hotel’s stoves, and at night ground the coffee in the coffee mill bought of the Hudson’s Bay Company, then went to the men’s sitting room where he smoked his Meerschaum pipe; no card playing was allowed here. But I am sure Mother never knew an idle moment, with the baking and cooking, and delivering babies for the neighbors! Father used to say to her: “Man’s work is from sun to sun, but woman’s work is never done.” How true, in her case.
Indians were hired to open and clean oysters and clams by the tubs full for the hotel in the summer. Evidently the “R” month rule was not observed in those days. Summer boarders wanted only fish, oysters and clams – never crabs, as I remember.
AJohn Crellin House with Stevens Hotel in Background, c. 1920
When my sister, Alice, was old enough, she helped with the cooking, while Ada and I waited on the tables. A never-ending task was candle making and after the lamps came into use, the constant trimming of wicks and polishing of glass chimneys. The many spool beds we used would be worth a small fortune today. In the fall, Ada and I would go to the Crellin store and search the sawdust in barrels which contained grapes shipped from California. The first organ in Oysterville created a sensation the day it arrived at the Stevens Hotel. There was bay bathing, but never in the ocean. Sailing captains brought dolls for we girls; once, to mother’s horror, one of these dolls, anatomically a boy, had to be destroyed immediately.
Going to school, we had to pass Indian huts, and often there was loud chanting and pounding on floor and roof with poles around a sick Indian; this frightened the children. In school there was singing, including one which began “The hunter winds his bugle horn”; and another was Indian: Kah, Kah close turn turn alee, Siah kopa klosha illahee.
Community activities included May Pole winding, and the Christmas tree at the church. During the early 1870’s, smallpox vaccine was brought to Oysterville, and people simply scratched arms, and vaccinated one another. The arrival of the WEEKLY OREGONIAN was eagerly anticipated, and the Indian wars were followed closely by the Stevens family; it is hard to realize the isolation of the Bay communities. The jewelry store was owned by a Mr. Hansen, a Dane. His wife’s sister, Adelia Casey, was always known at Delia Hansen. They came to Oysterville from the town of Grass Valley, in the Mother Lode country of California. Imagine the excitement while an Indian slave was hidden in a trunk in Andrew Wirt’s basement, after her master’s death when she was threatened with burial alive.
Oysterville Methodist Church (1872-1921) – First Church in Pacific County
Summer brought the photographer, and pictures taken on the porch of the hotel with the head held steady by clamps. It also brought the peddler with yardage and other items in his wagon. Summer was a time which meant visits to the Browns in Tokeland, where their daughter, Lizzie, (later Mrs. Kindred) had named the cows for her girl friends, among them being Alice, Ada and Laura!
And always there were the stories of crossing the plains, such as the many wild horses (but never mentioning the buffalo, as others have done). When the Indians once rode upon the party, they were determined to take one of the girls, but father compromised, offering instead mother’s button bag. It was accepted by the Indians as a substitute!