At Geppetto’s

     For twenty-plus years Geppetto’s in Ashland provided the standard by which we measured hamburgers and fries, the all-American meal that we consider essential sustenance at least once during each road trip.
     The fries were properly greasy and limp – none of those oven-baked cardboard substitutes.  The burgers were juicy and came with the basic lettuce, tomatoes, onions, and a variety of add-ons of our choice.  The buns were actually sourdough French rolls, fresh each day from a nearby bakery.  They never ever disintegrated mid-bite.
       Other places came close – the Willie Burger at Nanci and Jimella’s Ark (though the buns never stayed the course), the Deluxe in Seattle until they went New Age on the fries, and a funky little restaurant in Gettysburg, PA that I don’t remember the name of but I could find again if I ever decided to go that far east.  But on our annual treks to Ashland, we could always count on Geppetto’s.  Not any more.
     Several years ago, Geppetto’s changed hands.  Bit by bit we’ve seen the staff change, the décor ‘upgraded,’ and the menu ‘improved.’  Hamburgers are still the standard fare but they have definitely lost their bite, so to speak.  My favorite, the avocado burger used to come with slices from half an avocado.  Last night’s had three puny half slices.  And no onion.  And a new much-touted sourdough bun made in-house by the chef with no sour to it.   I have to say, though, that the fries are still great, though they no longer come with the burger and have to be ordered as a side dish.
     Last year we said we wouldn’t go back.  I’m not sure why we decided to try it again.  It comes under the heading of old habits, no doubt.  But, I think this time we are finally through with Geppetto’s, fries not withstanding.  Better not to taint old memories with bad buns.
     Besides, the Depot in Seaview and McMenamins’ Sandtrap in Gearhart are a lot closer to home and a lot closer to perfect in the burger department these days.  As for sustenance in Ashland – time to renew the quest.  Or perhaps, in deference to our waistlines, we should finally be considering the perfect salad.